Replacing a shower drain means breaking out the floor around the existing drain, removing it, setting the new body level to the finished tile line, re-waterproofing, then re-screeding and re-tiling. The critical step is continuity of the waterproofing at the new drain.
Sequence
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1. Assess | Identify the existing pipe size, direction and depth; check for rot or damage |
| 2. Isolate | Cut and remove tile and screed around the existing drain |
| 3. Remove | Disconnect and lift out the old drain body |
| 4. Prepare | Clean the opening; repair the substrate if required; add support |
| 5. Fit | Set the new body to the finished tile line; connect the outlet |
| 6. Waterproof | Membrane continuous over the flange and up the walls |
| 7. Screed & tile | Reinstate the fall and finish the floor |
| 8. Test | Water test before handover |
What commonly goes wrong
- Waterproofing not reinstated — the original membrane was terminated at the old drain; the new one must be fully bonded
- Pipe mismatch — new body does not fit the existing pipe, requiring a second visit and an adaptor
- Wrong level — new drain set to screed instead of finished tile line
- Insufficient support — particularly on timber floors, where the new drain is fixed to boards rather than a frame
- Tile match — replacement tile rarely matches the existing floor exactly
Replacing just the grate
If only the grate is damaged or the finish is being changed, the body may not need replacing. This is far cheaper and faster. Send a photograph and the channel dimensions and we will check whether a replacement grate is available in the required finish.
Consider upgrading the type
A replacement is often the moment to switch from a point drain to a linear drain — the floor is already open. The constraint is usually available build-up for the channel body. See renovation drainage.